The 50’s are in! From left, Olympus Zuiko 50mm F1.8; Canon 50mm F1.8 Mk II; Minolta 50mm F1.4 (pre RS), Fujinon 50mm F1.4 (without body).
I recently bought the Olympus from Mustaffa, a friendly guy who teaches black-and-white film processing! (Which is what every self-respecting B&W shooter does, pushing and pulling, dodging and burning, and having your own darkroom with funky chemicals.) Learning that would save a lot on film processing fees, so if you’re interested, email him at mustaffaaziz8@yahoo.com.
Sure, you could shoot black-and-white on digital but you don’t get the same contrast range.
From left: My Olympus OM-2000, Mustaffa’s Leica M6 TTL, his Olympus OM-2.
I finally got to touch a Leica rangefinder! Yes, it was way brighter than Kingsley’s Yashica Electro GSN 35, and the yellow secondary image was very obvious. Its film winder was a lot more refined and discreet, and he installed a soft shutter button.
The cloth shutter, of course, was very quiet.
The OM-2 was also an amazingly engineered camera, with fabric shutter, air cushion dampeners, and various springs to make its mirror so much softer than any other SLR. I couldn’t find the air tunnel they claim softens the sound.
My Olympus family. From left: Vivitar 2x teleconverter, Vivitar 24mm F2.0, Olympus Zuiko 50mm F1.8, Olympus Zuiko 35-70mm F3.5-4.8, Olympus Zuiko 70-210mm F4.5-5.6.
The Olympus Zuiko 50mm F1.8 is amazingly sharp! I think this was either F5.6 or F8. Click on the picture for a bigger view.
I love Fujifilm Superia film. This was the ASA200 version. Gotta love them emerald greens!
Using the 50mm F1.8.
24mm F2 (colors and lightness not adjusted. I love how the contrast is there, but doesn’t kill the shadows. Or maybe my OM-2000 overexposes just a bit.)
Near Burger King, Desa Sri Hartamas.
And now, guess what this is!
Below it, lies this. Yep, Jeff of Ampang Park had a broken Canon 50mm F1.8 Mark II lens lying around, and let me try my hand at fixing it. Note the 5-blade circular aperture.
The front element.
The front element, when reversed in front of another lens, gives awesome barrelling distortion and a closeup factor of about +20, I think. Shot at 35mm F36 ISO1600 with flash (to get enough focus to reach Jeff!) Yes, the Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 lens was already at infinity.
Switching the lens to Manual Focus disengages the gears.
The front element, mounted on my infrared-modded Fujfilm Digital Q1.
20mm, F22, 1/60, ISO400 with flash.
18mm, F3.5, 1/10, ISO400. Focusing changes the strength of the effect.
45mm, F5.6, 1/15, ISO400.
50mm, F22, 1/80, ISO400 with flash.
This is goood sheeet.
Oh yeah after I was done playing with it, I just applied some force and popped it back on. It worked like magic and focused when I tried it on a Canon EOS 5 at Jeff’s the next day! I didn’t intend to disconnect it again though it had a cool effect. However, if you do permanently disconnect your Canon 50mm F1.8 Mark II, you know you could use the front element for some funky stuff.
awesome dude!
OMG the M6!even if i dream i also nv will get to touch that
o_O Where can I sign up for lens-hack classes?
That’s some collection of Zuiko’s you’ve got there. Very wide, very normal, standard zoom, telephoto zoom. Not to mention a TC. Envy overload.
What was wrong with the EF 50 1.8?
How did you figure a figure of +20?
The Yashica’s a toy compared to the Leica!
Man, I love that Olympus Zuiko 50mm picture and the one from Superia film! Looked so old school! That’s a bit hard to do on digital, isn’t it?
hedonistan: Thanks!
Chapree: Shots #5 to #9 were all using Fujifilm Superia. Photoshop can simulate that with the help of Uncle Google. You can find out where your camera is the sharpest by changing to A (Aperture Priority) mode, then shooting one shot in every aperture from F2.8 to F11. At home, examine the shots and you’ll know where your lens is the sharpest.
wkcheang: The Canon 50mm F1.8 Mark II was decapitated; the front element snapped off. When reversed on a lens set to infinity, focus was at 5cm.
wow…dat om2 look so new!!!!
You can simulate most films (including the lovely contrasty b&w films like Ilford and Tri-X) with Alienskin Exposure.
Very nice software, has all the colour films too like Superia, Velvia etc.
http://www.alienskin.com/exposure/index.html
dude, really like photos that you’ve taken. hope i know how to shoot like that….